This is the driver's side, I removed the brake line (and didn't do a very good job of containing the brake fluid) and pulled off the previously-upgraded BMW brake caliper. I checked the pads carefully and they looked almost new with lots of material left.
Then I took off the hub nut and pulled the brake disc and the brake disc cover. The ball joint on both sides was in excellent condition.
When I got to this place, I noticed that the tie-rod end's rubber boot was shot, so I ordered two new ones from Pelican Parts. Here is the old and new:
I unbolted the top of the strut from the inside of the front trunk, pulled the strut down and levered it out of the fender.
Here are the old and new struts. The old ones were shot - you can see that when the arm is pressed down into the body, it doesn't pop back up again. They needed to be replaced anyway.
There's a rubber bumper-stop located at the top of the strut body. Both sides had one of the three lobes badly disintegrated. I searched far and wide on the web for replacements, to no avail. I stopped in at SGS Motorsports (formerly Strasse) in San Luis Obispo and asked the expert there. He said unless the car had been lowered in the past, it's safe to just cut off the bad lobe. It's meant as the final protector when the car completely bottoms out. So here are the before and after:
Next I moved on to the torsion bars. In this car, the torsion bar slides into the long tube at the bottom of the suspension A-arm. This is different from my Nissan pickup where the torsion bars are exposed and mounted rearwards of the front suspension. Here are the old and new, and you can see the difference in thickness, which is needed with all of the extra weight.
Here are shots of the front and the rear torsion bar mounts.
Here is the A-arm, pulled from the driver's side. You can see the collection of tools it takes to get the job done.
Now comes the hard part. Getting the rubber bushings out of the A-arm was a huge pain. They've been jammed into place for 38 years and I had to use two different puller tools and a lot of lubrication.
Now I moved over to the passenger side, taking the whole suspension out without tearing the caliper, disc and bearings apart.
I then polished the strut-top hardware and bolted everything back in place.