PakTrakr For Android Published to Google Play Store

Well I followed the 97 (it seemed like) step process to prepare the PakTrakr For Android app to be published in the Google Play store.  I made extensive notes so I won't have to re-learn everything for version 1.1.  After a few hours of Google magic processing, it showed up.  You can find it if you search for PakTrakr.  Here's a screen shot of how it looks in the store.  Google does a nice job presenting the app with the screen captures I made, and making it easy to click away 99 hard-earned cents!  I was going to make this initial release free as we work through any bugs and enhancements, but if you make it free from the start, you can't make it a pay-app in the future.  Others have worked around this by having a fully-featured pay app and a cut-down free app.  As a user, I don't think there's anything that I would want to have removed so I decided against the free version.

The "manual" for the app will always be here, so check for the latest updates.

PakTrakr for Android

This post will be kept up-to-date about the PakTrakr for Android application I've written.

It will represent the user manual, known bug list, future goals list and application and source code availability reference.  As information is updated, I will strikeout the old, highlight the new, and mark with version numbers (1.0, 1.1, 1.2).

Comments or bug reports can be posted as comments here or emailed to mwbrown42@gmail.com.  Please provide detailed information to allow me to have a chance to reproduce and correct the problem: Android device type, Android operating system version number, screen resolution, GPS and Bluetooth availability in the device, PakTrakr Bluetooth transmitter, and other relevant device-specific information and a detailed description of the steps necessary to recreate the problem.

I will do my best to continue fixes and new development but I can't promise anything, especially with the PakTrakr product going out of business.

User Manual:

Quick Start:

1. Install a Bluetooth transmitter into your PakTrakr's serial port
2. Turn on Bluetooth service in your phone
3. Turn on GPS service in your phone
4. Pair the Bluetooth transmitter with your phone
5. Install the PakTrakr app
6. Complete all Preferences settings, including the Bluetooth transmitter ID
7. Ensure the PakTrakr is active
8. Click on the Real Data button on the Debug tab
9. You should see the PakTrakr data reflected in the gauges and battery table
10. When you're ready to drive, click on the Start Trip button on the Maps tab
11. Wait for the map display to find your location
12. Enjoy your trip!
13. When your trip is over, click the Stop Trip button on the Maps tab

Purpose:

This Android application displays battery data from a PakTrakr system through a Bluetooth link.  Unfortunately PakTrakr went out of business on 12/31/2011, so no new parts are available.

Access to the critical information about the battery pack in your vehicle (car, truck, boat, etc) helps you operate the vehicle safely and hopefully with longer range and more confidence.

The application is set up as a series of tabs.  For best performance, the Android device should be mounted / held in Landscape position.

Map Tab:

The Map tab utilizes the GPS in your Android device and the Google Maps feature to graphically track your trip distance.  To begin your trip, make sure your GPS is enabled.  Click on the Start Trip button and begin driving.  A green line representing your trip will be drawn on the satellite map.  When your trip is complete, click on the Stop Trip button.  You trip will be logged in the Trips tab.  In the future, it will dynamically calculate your remaining range given the characteristics of your current trip and the amount of charge left in your battery pack.


Gauges Tab:

(Simulated Data)

The Gauges tab displays four pieces of information about your battery pack.  These readings are only valid when you are not pressing on the electron pedal and the battery pack is not charging or discharging.

1. % Charge.  This is a dial gauge that goes from 70 to 100, showing how much charge is left in your battery pack.  This number comes directly from the PakTrakr data stream and it's not clear to me how this is calculated.  Each type of battery has a safe discharge level, so be sure to not drop below this.  
2. Pack Temp.  This is a dial gauge that goes from 20 to 160, showing the temperature in Fahrenheit, of the battery pack.  Batteries that are too cold or too hot do not charge and discharge effectively.
3. Pack Volts.  This is a dial gauge that goes from 90 to 130, showing the voltage of the battery pack.  Watch this carefully to ensure you do not over-discharge your battery pack.
4. Current Flow.  This is a bar graph that goes from -600A to 600A, showing the charging current flow, in a green bar, and the discharging current flow, in red.  Careful electric driving reduces extreme current draw.

Batteries Tab:

(Simulated Data)

The Batteries tab is a grid representing the physical location of each battery in the pack.  There is a display for each battery showing the battery number and the instantaneous voltage of that battery.  Watch each battery's level and ensure that all batteries are within a narrow voltage range and no batteries are overcharged or  over-discharged.


Trips Tab:

The Trips tab displays a list of each trip you log using the Start Trip and Stop Trip buttons on the Map tab.  To delete a trip, tap on a trip line and select Yes in the confirmation dialog.


Errors Tab:

The Errors tab displays a list of error codes emitted by the PakTrakr.  There are several types of errors, which help you understand what is happening to each battery:

Low Water Likely, Pack Imbalance, Failing Battery, Maintenance Required, Damaged Battery, Overcharging, Excessive Discharge

Each error line in this tab contains:

Date, Physical Battery Number, Error Message

Preferences Tab:

This tab configures the application to match your PakTrakr and battery installation.  You must set these parameters correctly to match your installation or problems or crashes will occur.

• Rated Battery Voltage: Tap to enter the normal voltage of your battery type.
• Low Battery Voltage:  Tap to enter the lowest safe voltage for your battery type.

• Battery Rows: Tap to enter the battery setup in your vehicle.  This section allows you to set the number of physical rows of batteries in your vehicle.  It dynamically changes the number of entries and allows you to enter the number of batteries physically located in each row in the car, going from front to back.

• PakTrakr Remotes: Tap to enter the PakTrakr wiring in your vehicle.  This section allows you to set the number of PakTrakr Remote units you have in your vehicle, and the physical battery number wired to each sensor wire of each PakTrakr Remote.  This is required due to the possibility that your battery bus wiring may not match up to the battery numbering system you'd like to use.  A Battery mapping entry is a comma-separated list of physical battery numbers, showing how each physical battery is wired to the PakTrakr Remote sensor wires, for example "3,1,2,6,5,4".  It's very important to follow the PakTrakr wiring instructions or the data reported will not match the battery layout.  The PakTrakr sensor wires go in sequence from the "Most Negative" battery in a battery group for each PakTrakr Remote to the "Most Positive" battery in the group.  The Black wire goes to the Most Negative battery's (-) terminal.  The remaining wires go to the (+) terminals of each battery in sequence: Red, Green, Blue, Orange, White, Brown, Yellow, Violet.  Any unused sensor wires can be wrapped in tape or cut off and secured.

• PakTrakr Bluetooth Device: Tap to select the name of the previously Bluetooth-paired transmitter you have attached to the PakTrakr serial port connector.  Please see this entry for more details.

Debug Tab:

This tab contains useful things I used during debugging of the application and which should go away in the future.

• Real Data / Dump Data / Simulated Data:  This switches the data being read and where it's displayed.  The app launches in Simulated Data mode.  You need to make sure your Bluetooth transmitter is on, Bluetooth is enabled on the Android device and the transmitter name is selected in the Preferences screen.  You can then click on Real Data.  After a short period to hook up to the transmitter, the PakTrakr data should be reflected on all displays and gauges.
• Test Parser:  This reads some PakTrakr test data within the app and runs it through the parser and  reflects it on all displays and gauges.
• Insert Trip:  This adds a fake trip to the Trip database and Trip list.
• Insert Error / Delete All Errors:  This adds a fake error to the Error database and Error list, or clears all errors from the database and list.
• Data Dump Area:  This is where raw PakTrakr data is displayed instead of being parsed and  reflected on all displays and gauges.

Known Bugs:

• The app is very fragile, so you may find that many things can crash it.
• GPS turned off crash.
• Bluetooth turned off crash.
• Rotate Android device crash.
• PakTrakr data signal interference crash.
• PakTrakr protocol data mis-handling crash.
• Parameter settings mis-handling incorrect operation or crash.
• Bluetooth not linking up.  Check pairing, power and wiring.  Try rebooting Android device.
• Data may not be displayed in the Data Dump area.

Updates:

• V 1.0: Initial Release.
• V 1.1: Added ACRA crash handling library to report crashes for debugging and updates.
• V 1.1: Gauges now autosize to your device's screen resolution.  Tested on Droid, Droid Bionic and Xoom.
• V 1.1: Optimized gauge layout for portrait and landscape orientation.
• V 1.2: Added error handling to Preferences inputs
• V 1.2: Improved handling of errors in PakTrakr data stream

Future Goals:

• Auto-scale the Voltage gauge for pack voltage.  Currently hardcoded to 120V.  Top of scale will be nominal @ 125%, Low will be 25%.
• Allow user to select which gauges to show or not show
• Scale the battery table to size to available space
• Use graphical AA battery and height bar/color to indicate charge level
• Calculate Watt-Hours/Mile
• Display Watt-Hours in gauge or tab
• Add Miles/Kilometers setting
• Add validation to the battery pack Preferences inputs
• Add better error handling to PakTrakr data stream
• Add better Bluetooth connection status messages
• Continuously calculate a reliable remaining distance based on the trip distance so far, starting and current charge levels, and display in the Map tab.
• Add another table to track charging information.
• Allow gauges to resize to native display on your Android device.
• Add color coding to Batteries tab for good / overcharge / over-discharged state
• Calculate average per-charge distance
• Record and display Amp-Hours during charge and driving
• Handle first notification of an error and ignore subsequent ones until error goes away
• Remove, hide or redesign Debug tab
• Re-use graphical display to talk to another brand of Battery Monitoring System.  Jack wants me to get data from a LinkPro.
• 
  

Application Availability:

The app was completed and published in the Google Play store on May 27, 2012.  Please use the button below to access it:




I will release the application temporarily from this web site.  When I have the full process in place, I will release the application into the Android Market / Google Play store.

In order to release V1.0 of the application here, I have to:

• Fix a final bug in the PakTrakr protocol handling (always one more bug!)
• Create a cryptographic key to sign the application
• Create a cryptographic key to enable the use of the Google Maps programming interface
• Create an End User License Agreement, based on GPL V3
• Set version numbers and names in the Manifest file
• Use Eclipse to create signed and optimizied .apk file
• Provide a link to the .apk file.  Note that you will have to update your device settings to allow application installation from non-Market / Play locations.

In order to release V1.0 of the application to Android Market / Google Play store, I have to:

• Complete all of the above
• Design an icon, as defined by the Android style guide (Thanks to Ryan's skills!)
• Prepare promotional text and screenshots of the application
• Configure Market / Play options
• Publish in Market / Play
• Create link to app installation icon:

Source Code Availability:

I will release the source code to the application, under the GPL V3 license, as an Eclipse project Archive file.  Anyone can download, use and update this code as long as you stay in compliance with GPL V3.  I would ask that any fixes or great new features be donated back to me for inclusion in the code for everyone's benefit.  Donations to my PayPal account mwbrown42@gmail.com for access to the source code are gratefully accepted.

Punch List

I'm down to the point where I have a few things to finish off to call the car "complete".  I have driven it several times but there are things that I need to take care of to make it really road-worthy and not be afraid of being noticed by the cops!

I went through all of the electrical systems and found the following don't work:

1. Use of blinker blows a fuse that powers most of the dashboard.  This is going to involve some remove-wires-and-test and a lot of blown fuses until I figure it out.
2. High beam lights don't work, but I think this is a problem with a known workaround of a dead high/low beam silver rectangular relay.  This didn't work when I bought the car.  The  high beam indicator light doesn't work and I assume this is related.
3. Hazard lights don't work, likely related to #2, but doesn't blow a fuse.
4. Compartment light doesn't come on when switch in door-buzzer position, but does come on in the other position.
5. Reverse light does not come on when shifter in reverse.
6. License plate light does not come on with headlights.
7. Wiper only works in "middle" position.  Low and high do not cause movement, but when left in high position causes the wiper motor to get extremely hot.

Other items that need attention:

1. Driver's side A-pillar is bent down by about 1/4" and the chrome upright in the door's window assembly doesn't fit nicely into the rubber gasket.
2. Driver's door window mechanism gets stuck when in the full-down position.
3. Passenger's door window mechanism stops about 1/4" below the targa gasket.
4. Need to figure out how to drive the 120V charger with the J1772 charger.  Extreme disappointment that there's no way to derive 120V from the 240V feed due to lack of Neutral.  Luckily I work with electricians and power electrical engineers, so I'll pick their brain for some kind of 240V-120V transformer solution.
5. Buy rear trunk hinges.  Rainbow body shop "lost" them somewhere in their shop.  Pelican doesn't have any stock, but they can get one of them from Porsche in Germany for a mindboggling price plus shipping.  The 914EV list suggests that I watch eBay as they come up for sale all the time.  Unfortunately now there are only front hinges for sale!
6. Get rear trunk hinges stripped/primed/painted by Rainbow.
7. Install rear trunk hinges, rear trunk lid and rear trunk lid latch.
8. Install rear trunk gas struts from Camp914.
9. Mount rear-view mirror on new windshield.
10. Figure out how to keep sun visors up when I want them up and down when I want them down.  I've tried butyl and wraps of electrical tape, but both end up sagging down.  There seems to be a bolt hole, but I won't clamp down on the pivot pin.
11. Finish debugging PakTrakr Android app and publish it into the Android Market.  More on this in a separate post.
12. Buy 3rd party floor mats.
13. Get a padded bag(s) to hold charging cable, Kill-A-Watt, fire extinguisher and tire jack.
14. Get agreed-value insurance to cover the full $40K of money in the car in case of a total wreck / fire.
15. Install pads in rear suspension to raise rear of car about 2".
16. Change California vehicle registration type to Electric by going to smog referee at Cuesta College in San Luis Obispo.
17. Long-term: Buy & cut sheets of clear plastic / lexan for battery box covers

First Bluetooth Data!

My Android app to read the PakTrakr data is complete, except for the actual reading of the battery data - kind of an important feature to get working!  I can pair the phone to the Bluetooth transmitter and open a connection in software, but can't get the code to read the data stream - nothing shows up.  I confirmed this with an Android Bluetooth testing app called Bluetooth SPP.  It will connect, but no data flows.

The Bluetooth transmitter has multiple switches and software settings and I tried every combination I could think of.  I know the PakTrakr serial port is working since I can plug it into the COM port of my laptop and see the data streaming through.  So the problem is the link between the PakTrakr serial cable and the Bluetooth transmitter.

I got a pointer from Steve Dolan, a potential user of my app with an awesome electric catamaran, to a similar project for PakTrakrs and Windows CE devices called EVDashboard.  The directions say to solder a wire from pin 4 (DTS) to pin 7 (RTS).  In desperation I did it this afternoon and BINGO!  I see the PakTrakr data flowing in the Bluetooth SPP app!  Thanks a million Steve!  You win 100 Internets!

Serial ports, formally known as RS-232, are a 40-year old technology with most of the behaviour shrouded in mythology and magic.  I believe this fix has something to do with constantly signaling that data is ready to flow.  I don't really care why this works, but it does, so I can move forward by finalizing the data reading and handling in the app.  I hope Ken Hall will offer a USB connector or a native Bluetooth solution so developers and users don't have to go through this pain.

Here are the components of the PakTrakr - Serial Cable - Gender Changer - Bluetooth Transmitter - Android phone data flow.  I can't support any other combination of parts or settings, unless you prove it and I can easily recreate it.  I'd love to avoid soldering the wire so anything that avoids that is greatly appreciated.

• Buy a "Serial Bluetooth Adapter" from USConverters.com
• Note that the IOGear Serial to Bluetooth unit is popular but I wasn't able to find a supplier and have no experience or advice on using it.
• Set the following switches on the Serial Bluetooth Adapter
• DCE - DTE switch to DTE (Data Terminal Equipment)
• N/G - G switch to N/G (Non-Group)
• S - M switch to S (Slave)
• Buy a DB9 Male-To-Male gender changing adapter from Radio Shack
• Gently pop the two sides of the PakTrakr serial cable connector apart
• Solder a single small wire into the PakTrakr serial port circuit board as shown in the picture below.  This will connect Pin 4 (DTR) to Pin 7 (RTS).  We benefit from the Pin 4 circuit coming through the circuit board to the leg of the chip, and just jumper from there to the connector's Pin 7.  If you aren't confident with soldering the wire, contact me and we can work something out.

Here's a closeup of the jumper in place.  The angle is deceiving - it comes up from the pin of the chip and loops back down to Pin 7 - it's not touching the next pin on the connector.

Snap the two sides of the connector back together again.  Put the three parts together into a sandwich.  I don't trust the ridiculously tiny and hard to turn screws built into the parts, so I used two small zip-ties to hold the three pieces together, then two more around the assembly which pulls the zip-ties tighter and locks everything together.  You should end up with something that looks like this.  Boy would a single cable with Bluetooth be a great PakTrakr option!

Place this assembly into the vehicle and run power to it, and set the power switch appropriately.  I used the USB hub I installed earlier to drive power to it with the supplied USB-to-MiniUSB cable.

When you run the app, you'll see the blue Status LED flash then go solid once the Android phone is paired.  More info to come once I debug the data stream handling.

PakTrakr Next Steps and USB Device Power

With the PakTrakr remotes installed and tested, it's time to add the current sensor.  The opening in the sensor is not big enough to pass a lug or battery cable through, so I used the copper bar provided in the kit, and bolted it in.  The sensor's data cable runs through the firewall and in behind the dashboard for its ultimate home in the PakTrakr dashboard display unit.

With that done, it's time to clean up the wiring.  Each PakTrakr remote has a generous amount of wire to run to each battery.  With the help of some butt terminals and zip ties, the wiring is now nice and tidy.

Here's the front battery pack.

Here's the mid battery pack:

Here's the rear battery pack:

and here are the saddlebags:

The final component to go into the PakTrakr system is the serial port output cable.  I've got it lined up here next to the serial port Bluetooth transmitter device which provides the path to the Bluetooth receiver in my Droid Bionic.  This delivers the data stream from the PakTrakr to the Android app I'm desperately trying to finish up, which will run in the phone as I drive down the road.

The Bluetooth transmitter needs power and conveniently it will take power via a USB cable.  My Droid Bionic also will take power via a USB cable.  I also plan to mount a GoPro video camera which recharges with USB power.  See a pattern developing?  With three USB devices, I looked around for a USB hub with 4 ports (for future use or passenger's device) and high-power delivery a la USB 3 at 900ma.  It has to take 12VDC so I don't have to have a separate power regulator.  I came on this sweet device, the awkwardly-named USBG-3X4M.  Notice the green 12V power connector.

Here it is mounted up under the dashboard.  The BlueTooth transmitter powers up no problem, but my Droid Bionic won't recognize any power coming from the unit, no matter what USB cable or port I try.  I've emailed the vendor and hopefully they'll have a suggestion.

PakTrakr wiring

It was time to install the PakTrakr remote units to the battery pack.  The key to understand is the PakTrakr "Battery 1" is the most-negative battery in the set to be measured by the remote.  The black wire goes to the Battery 1 negative terminal, then the voltage sensors wires go to the positive terminals of Battery 1 up to Battery 8, with color code Red, Green, Blue, Orange, White, Brown, Yellow, and Violet.

Since the PakTrakr remote pulls a little bit of current all the time, I put a detachable link on the Black wire.  I'll pull them if I won't be driving the car for a while.

As soon as the Black and Red wires were connected, a small greed LED started blinking on each remote.  This indicates that the remote is working correctly.  I'll clean up the sensor wires with small zip-ties once all of the data checks out.

The next step will be to daisy-chain each remote's data cable back to the display in the dashboard.  I'll then install an RS-232 to Bluetooth adapter which will drive data to the app on my Android-based Bionic.  I just upgraded the phone a few weeks ago - it's got a faster CPU and more memory, but most importantly it has a bigger screen for better visibility of the app display.

The Dashboard Goes Back In

Over the course of three weekends, I restored the components from the dashboard and built most everything up again.  I am up to the instructions in the EA manual where I have to start testing the 12V electrical system, and right now the car doesn't have one.  So, time to reinstall the dashboard, switches and instruments.

The top dashboard has some front-to-back cracks.  I previously filled in the cracks with vinyl repair epoxy, but intended to cover the whole thing with a new piece of vinyl.  I started off well, using contact cement, but hit a snag with the drastic compound curve just to the right of the instrument cluster hump.  It just wasn't possible to get the vinyl to stay flat.  I gave up and found a dashboard restoration outfit with a vacuum press on the web and emailed them but never got a response. 

So I think I'm going to use the rest of the vinyl repair kit to try to do the best I can to clean up the cracks.  Since I was disillusioned by the dashboard, I decided to install the passenger compartment hardware.

I decided to start by attacking the emergency brake handle.  It was a chipped paint and rusty mess.  I soaked it in the magic fluid, then sanded, primed, painted and clear coated.

After assembly, I'm left with a pressure switch that looks like it should screw down into the side-to-side brace just under the handle, but it doesn't fit anyway I try.  I tried searching Google for images but nothing is helping.  I'll leave it off for now but will keep it in a labelled ziplock bag just in case.

Next I moved to the pedal cluster.  I had previously fixed it up, so it's just a matter of bolting it into place.  Right...  Cramped spaces, tiny hardware, cables, etc. make it quite difficult.  I pushed the brake actuator into the master cylinder and ran the nuts onto the studs to lock it into place.  You'll notice a bad cable connector below that I'll fix up later.

Then I bolted the cluster down to the floorpan and hooked up the clutch and accelerator cable.  Two problems: the clutch cable is new and despite adjusting both ends it looks like it's too long.  This will be fun to figure out later on.  The second problem is the pivot pin for the accelerator cable mount was worn about halfway through.  I replaced it with a bolt and nylock nut so I don't get stranded on the road somewhere.

We now move a couple of weekends into the future and I went back to installing the "middle" dashboard.  First thing I did was install the PakTrakr display and the radio housing into an enlarged hole where the cigarette lighter used to go.  I will install a 12 V outlet later, not in the face of the dashboard but out the bottom so plugs will stick up into it vertically.

I gently laid the dashboard frame into place on the firewall, pushing the four bolts along the top edge down into their holes.  I learned the hard way in this project that tightening things up during a multi-step process usually results in taking something apart again.  I left the dash unbolted while I worked on mounting the rest of the hardware and running the cables.

One slight mistake I made was to leave the switches plugged into the wiring harness during the bodywork.  I should have removed them or put them into plastic bags and ziptied up inside the firewall.  This resulted in the soda blasting powder getting onto and into the three switches.  I carefully marked the wire color codes, removed, cleaned and replugged the switches.

The headlight switch was the most challenging because as I was blowing compressed air into the switch to get the powder out, the interior light dimming rheostat wire coil popped out.  This necessitated taking the switch fully apart so I took the opportunity to clean and lubricate everything well.

Working from left to right, I mounted the headlight, hazard light and fog light switches.  Once mounted, I gently convinced the wiring harness into place behind the dashboard and plugged each wire into the proper place.

This is the hazard light switch, followed by the fog light switch, dirty and clean.

And here are the completed switches.

Next it was time to install the heater control.  First I cleaned it well, lubricated the pivots and burnished the copper contacts for the first, second and third fan speed.  The tricky thing is to get the three cables that come through the firewall from the ventilation system attached to the right lever arm.  I got everything mounted but then found the bottom slider only went about 1/3 of the way across.  I traced this back to the amount of exposed cable on that control.  It just didn't have enough travel.  I cut about 1" off the end of the armor on that cable and re-mounted it.  That did the job.  Why it didn't work correctly I don't know, but all three controls work well now.

I popped the driver's side door switch onto the cluster of brown wires.  I cleaned the contacts in the switch well, then washed the slightly cracking rubber and treated it with rubber preserver.  The passenger door switch is around the shop somewhere, but I can't put my hand on it right now.  I hope it eventually shows up!

Next I moved to the instrument cluster.  I sanded down, primed, painted and clearcoated the instrument cluster frame and screwed it into place.

I gently pulled the wires for each instrument through their respective holes, plugged onto the terminals and pushed in the light bulb holders into their sockets.  I tested the odometer one more time before installing and found that it was failing again - no motion on either odometer.  Following the Pelican Parts tutorial, I found mine had the "slipping gear" problem, so I gently squeezed the center hole with vice grips and now it grabs nicely on the shaft and behaves properly.  Nothing like a friction fit on a polished shaft - future failure guaranteed.

I followed my wiring diagram from the disassembly and found a couple of things I need to tweak.  Once all wires were in place, I screwed in the speedometer cable and trip odometer reset cable and pushed all of the instruments gently into place.  It's starting looking like a car again!

I then started to put the steering column back together, but I decided that the ignition switch/lock wasn't working very well so I've taken it to an automotive locksmith to be cleaned & rebuilt and have a few new keys cut, so that installation will happen this coming weekend.  I have also transferred over to the 924 indicator/wiper stalk assembly, using the Pelican Parts tutorial, and will have pictures of that next time.  This gives me electric control of the new windshield washer pump.

So good progress and we're getting very, very close to checking the 12V electrical system!  Oh yes, I ordered the 20 US Battery batteries last week and they should show up any day, so I need to move quickly through the rest of the project to get it into rolling state.  I'm not going to worry about doors or hoods or windshields, just enough to roll it around and do the initial testing!